About Celeriac (Celery Root)

picture of celeriac

I have just started experimenting with this wonderful tangy root vegetable. Also known as celery root or knob celery, it is, indeed, knobby. I see them in winter in my markets: large, warty, dusty with dirt…they seem rather more »

Kumquat Marmalade and Kumquat Spoon Fruit

kumquat marmalade

Kumquat marmalade is terrific with toast in the morning. But kumquat spoon fruit is a specialty of Greece. When I asked Neni how the kumquats—which are preserved whole in simple syrup, are served, she said on a spoon, more »

Grapefruit Marmalade


This grown-up marmalade is bittersweet, wonderful on toast, great served with meat or cooked with chicken wings. Citrus fruits are, of course, high in acidity (which is why you need so much sugar), and because bacteria cannot grow more »

Neni’s White Bread


Neni’s husband Stathis says the only downside of homemade bread is you end up eating too much of it. He’s right. But it is so easy to make, using the Lahey technique that in my opinion is the more »

Pork Chops with Kumquats


This is an easy, one pot dish that is very savory. Serves 4 3 pork chops about 1-inch thick 2 whole scallions, chopped 4 garlic cloves, sliced 1 cup chopped tomatoes 1 cup chopped celery leaves (see Note), more »

Week of February 28th


Edward’s first meal after coming home from Arthur Avenue Friday is always the most delicate fish, and this week, he got a hold of Maine sardines. They are at the end of their season, and a real treat: more »

Candied Grapefruit Peel & Chocolate Custard


Now that I am in the habit, I remove the peel of all citrus fruits before juicing them. The white pith is bitter and not useful, but the exterior, colored part of the peel, the zest, is a more »

Week of February 21st


Schools follow one kind of calendar, accounts another, and Ed Giobbi a third. Our week starts with Friday. That’s when he shops on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx, so that’s when the week of cooking starts. The week more »