Celery Root Pickles

My experiments with celery root are ongoing. I love these sweet, crisp refrigerator pickles. They aren’t canned as there is no USDA data for canning celery root pickles. But the good news is you don’t have to use more »

Week of March 21

I’ve come to appreciate that asking for stories is no way to get them. Nonetheless, it’s funny what triggers a story from Edward. At Tino’s, over our coffees, I showed Edward some pictures my son Mo had sent more »

Lemon Spoon Fruit

I was surprised when I saw Neni setting aside the pith—not the zest, which is used in cooking, but that white bitter stuff we are always told to throw away—after juicing lemons. She makes this splendid spoon fruit more »

It’s Easter on Arthur Avenue

And that means it’s crazy busy in the stores. If you haven’t already ordered your baby lamb or goat, you are in trouble. Indeed, I placed an order for Neni for a 15 pound baby goat at Biancardi’s more »

Celery Root, Apple, and Walnut Salad

I have made celery root remoulade many times but in truth I find it sloppy and too mayonnaisey. I mean, I love adding julienned celery root to other kinds of salad that call for mayonnaise, like lobster salad, more »

Swiss Chard with Garbanzo Beans and Preserved Lemons

Neni often eats a vegetable stew with homemade bread, maybe a piece of cheese, and a few cured olives. It’s a marvelous way to eat: light, inexpensive, healthy. I’ve gotten into the practice, too, and am sleeping better more »

Lemons: The Greek Staple

Neni goes through at least 12 lemons a week. They are her primary acid in cooking, used to brighten up the flavors of food, as well as lend the zingy taste that pushes her cuisine into the “I more »

Week of March 14

There used to be a fishmonger in many neighborhoods in Manhattan, but not anymore. Most fish I have access to within walking distance of my place in SoHo are sold at chain stores, like Wholefoods and Citarella. I more »

Week of March 7

In the six months or so that I’ve been following Edward around on Arthur Avenue, I don’t think I have seen him buy tuna or salmon or halibut or any other big predator fish. He always buys the more »

Taramosalata

Neni saves leftover bread to make this dish. She cuts off the crust and makes breadcrumbs, and she freezes ½ cup sized hunks of old bread to makes this. Neni likes this dip smooth; her husband Stathis likes more »